Installing ADDCO Swaybars

Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 20:19:10 -0600
From: "Bob Kramer"
Subject: Re: TR6 Addco sway bar help needed

Original Question:

> I'm installing a front anti-sway bar back in my TR6. The
> original one was damaged and the links were bad, so I ordered an
> Addco front sway bar from TRF. I first tried to install it last
> year, but with the "handling kit" springs, it wouldn't fit. I've
> since gone back to the regular springs, and now it almost fits.
> The brackets that attach to the a-arm are as far toward the
> center of the car as they can go - to the point of having the
> vertical link contact the a-arm.
>
> Has anyone successfully installed this bar in their TR6? Is
> there a trick to it? Could you mount the brackets to the
> radiator shroud in the same location as the original brackets or
> did you have to move them inside the frame rail?

I just finished installing the ADDCO swaybars to my TR6 this past weekend. The front swaybar was a pain, but you should be able to fit it without too much difficulty. I also added the mild comp springs from TRF at the same time.

1. Cut the old u-bolts in half with the Dremel cut-off disc.
2. Remove the old swaybar by taking the links off the lower a-arm.
3. Remove links from old sway-bar (make sure they are still firm in the rubber joint or buy new ones)
4. Mount the links to the new swaybar on the bench using the washers from the TR part. I bought poly bushes at Pep Boys to replace the rubber ones.
5. Mount the links/bar back on the a-arm
6. Line up the bar to the lower radiator pan. I used one of the holes and drilled a new one for the back. Even though I was careful, I had to enlarge the holes to get the square u-bolt in and lined up. With a little fiddling it works like they say.
7. I forgot to order poly swaybar mount bushes (Vicky Brit) so I used the rubber crap that came with them. They have a slit, so you can add them now, but I'd bet with poly you have to slide them on before step 4.
8. I tightened everything up before I set it back on it's wheels, so I plan on loosening it all up at some point and retightening while it's on the ground.

The rear swaybar was more of a pain. They supply 2 washers top and bottom to center the link (really just a 5.5" 5/16" bolt with locating washers for the bushes) that are intended to hold the bush in place in the hole inside the rear spring. We've all done it when we didn't have the right size washer, use a smaller washer to close the hole in the bigger one, but you'd think they would source a bigger washer with the right size hole. I couldn't find one locally. I wish I had taken the time to have the smaller washer welded to the bigger one. I can see the link bolt sliding around under torque. What I did was buy a boat trailer roller. It is fairly hard rubber, shaped like this I>-<I. I cut it in half into little Apollo spacecraft shaped cones and sized it to fit the recess under the trailing arm. I then used the 2 washers below it and inside the spring. I again subbed the poly bushes and bolted it all up. The bushes have lips that fit inside the smaller washers to hold it in place. Drilling for the mounts is almost the same as the front except that they are angled to fit the location.

It was a pain, but really not that difficult. Give it another try.

Bob Kramer, Austin TX
Hill Country Triumph Club
TR6's, TR250's, TR3A vintage race