Dealing with Damaged Wheel Studs

Thanks to all who responding to my question of how to remove the lug nut from the wheel stud when the stud has come lose from the hub (Jay, Don, Hugh, Allen).

Here's what I did:

1. Couldn't find a lug or nut splitter that was large enough for the lug nut on the 6.
2. Marked the center of the lug nut using a nail setting tap.
3. Started drilling out the cneter of the lug all the way back to where the tappered end of the lug is.
4. Progressively increased the bit size until I was just under the diameter of the stud (about a 1/2"). Used vise grips, locked onto the stud, to prevent the stud and lug nut from spinning while I drilled.
5. Used the vise grip pointing straight out from the lug and wiggled it up, down & sideways. The stud snapped off right at the base of the lug nut and I can now remove the tire, brake drum and bad stud to replace with new one and some lock tight.

All in all, more nerve racking than difficult. Took about a half hour and the need to rent a 1/2" drill.

Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6

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Follow-up:

From: Dan Masters
Subject: Re: TR6 Rear Hub Studs

In a message dated 5/4/98 6:51:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Scott Suhring writes:

> While replacing some of the older lug nuts on the rear
> wheel with new chromed nuts, one of the wheel studs came
> lose (tightening, it just spun). I assume that the car is
> still safe to drive while I await the replacement since the
> other 3 are fine.

Scott,

Unfortunately, your problem may not be the stud - it may be the hole itself. When a stud turns, it reams out the hole. If it is not too bad, you can use one of the stronger grades of loc-tite to fill the hole and prevent the stud from turning again. One of the front lugs on my TR6 has been treated thusly. If the hole has been enlarged too much, you will have to get a stud with a larger shank.

As for the term "draw" when installing the new stud, just keep in mind that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. As you tighten the nut on the stud, it moves toward the head of the stud. At the same time, the head of the stud tries to move toward the nut. With the nut tight against the spacer washers and the hub, turning the nut further will pull the stud through the hole till it is tight against the hub, and the nut can no longer be turned. Just remove the nut and the stud is now installed.

If the stud hole is too large, this technique won't work as the stud just turns with the nut. You may have to rig up some type of puller, or slide hammer, to get the stud installed till the loc-tite sets up.

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN