Brief Frame Off Project Guideline

In a message dated 98-01-22 20:38:11 EST, Matrix writes:

<< I am trying to get input from those who have done a restoration before to tell me what I should do to get the frame unit.. running and checked out. >>

I'm assuming that you have a factory manual for the technical details.Following are just some tips, plans and procedural issues which I find helpful.

Somehow you will need to degrease and derust the parts you are about to take off. You might consider getting or making both a solvent tank for degreasing and a blast cabinet to remove rust & old paint. TIP sells plans and parts to make the cabinet fairly economically and you can sell it when done. There are some commercial businesses which will bead blast parts for you. Look for someone who does powdercoating they are all set up to do it.

• You can easily clean up nuts and bolts with blast cabinet too. Get a large collander from the kitchen supplies section of your grocery store. The type made of metal, windowscreen like material. Degrease a handful of nuts and bolts, let dry, pop into the collander and then into the blast cabinet. Hold the collander with one hand and shake and pop up and down while you spray directly into the open top ( not from the side or youll blow them out) of the collander with the blast nozzle. They'll look like new and reassemble easier. Wash the beads off with solvent.
  
• Take the entire frame to a high pressure car wash or steam cleaner if available. Use a degreaser, wire brush and scraper to clean off as much of the gunk as you can. This can save hours of chipping, soaking and scraping to get at nuts and bolts and prep for paint.
  
• Strip the frame completely. Placing the frame high, as on carpenter's saw horses makes the work easier when you get set up to work. Start soaking the rear springs bushings in WD40 or such, and disassemble last. They can be real tough to get out. On the front suspension it's probably best to disassemble one side at a time (use a spring compressor). Remove, degrease, blast. Check for cracks and for straightness. Remove old suspension bushings. Inspect and replace trunnions especially. Check front hubs for cracks. Don't try to fool yourself about any 'wear' parts in the suspension and steering. Plan on replacing them.
  
• I then mark each major piece with an L or R, and store small parts, nuts bolts etc. in ziplock bags and a box for future painting. I prefer to 'batch paint' do a lot of parts all at the same time, since I set up an area to paint.
  
• Disassemble rear brakes, remove springs and diff.
  
• When the frame is bare another trip to the car wash might be needed. You'll see. Make sure you check for square, or have a body shop do it. The manual gives some instructions. Blast the frame or have it done, primer, and paint, put back on the saw horses and reverse the process for assembly.
  
• Rebuild brakes and steering box, send out radiator to flush or recore.
  
• Check diff, replace bearings if needed. It's almost impossible to get the outer bearings off the hubs so be careful not to damage them. They are usually ok anyway. I have a local specialty shop go through the diff to set lash etc.
  
• Replace U Joints.
  
• Paint all appropriate suspension and steering parts with a gloss black. Clean and treat with one of the paint prep solutions found at your local auto body supply store before painting. Usually the spray can paint is adequate, but paint as early as possible before reassemble as these paints tend to remain soft for weeks. I've used a heat lamp to help cure them quicker and it helps to have the part warm at painting time.

Use new locknuts or rewire all suspension nuts and bolts. Oh yes, have some fun too. I like to bake cookies while I'm working too, makes a nice snack.

Bob (ie) Paul