The most informative thing you can learn about a TR-6 engine if you can't actually run it is to check the condition of the Thrust Washers. These are the biggest failure point. Replacement can require a different crankshaft and block if the condition is severe enough. This can be a good bargaining point when buying a TR-6.
To check, simply push the crankshaft pulley rearward as hard as you can, then have an assistant sit in the car. Now, use your hand to span the space between the crank pulley and the front of the engine, and inform your assistant to lightly step on the clutch pedal. You'll feel the crank pulley move forward slightly, and this will reveal the condition of the thrust washers.
The allowable axial play for the crankshaft is .007-.013"! If the distance seems greater than say, the thickness of your fingernail, you should bargain for a lower price, knowing that you'll have to be into the lower end of the motor soon. If the distance approaches 1/8", you can bet that the thrust washers have fallen into the oil pan, and the connecting rod bearings are short to fail. In this case, a different engine would probably be in order.
Greg